I am eventually going to be addressing the same issue, but don’t have any first hand experience I can share.

However, there are a number of products and procedures detailed over on the Concours Mustang Forum. You might go over there and do a little research.

 

There are vinyl repair kits at department stores that have a patch that goes over the repair with the 3D raised grain that translates to the recessed grain when you lift it. I normally just use a piece of cloth (like a dish cloth with a larger thread pattern) and dab at a small area and it leaves the perfect imprint when you turn it different directions.

 

Instead of bondo, use RTV. I used to build and camo trail cameras and that was trick for duplicating bark texture. Spray or wipe on some kind of release agent (PAM?), cover with good layer of RTV (NOT the caulk that never sets), then peel it off once it sets.

 

The reverse grain swatch is perfect, but if you just use an old piece of seat vinyl it's pretty close.

 

I fixed a console that had a couple small holes in it about a 1/4" in diameter. I scuffed the backside with sandpaper and used JB weld to adhere a small backer to it and smoothed the front side with remaining JB Weld. After it cured, I sanded it smooth and used an engraving tool to draw the grain in it. After a coat of vinyl paint you couldn't tell it was there. Obviously larger holes would be more difficult to match though.

 

I've repaired fiberglass interior panels. To get the grain effect, I used a surface area of the panel with the desired grain surface. I cleaned and then sprayed the area with a release agent (PAM) Like Huntingky suggested. I then brushed on multiple layers of liquid rubber on the area to create a "mold skin" for lack of better explanation. After the first couple layers, I added a broad cloth material to reinforce the rubber skin (for each additional layer) to strengthen my "mold skin" so it would not tear when removing or releasing it from the panel. This made an exact copy of the texture. For the repair, I used a fiberglass resin because the panels were fiberglass but you could use what ever you choose on the surface of the repair and then use your "mold skin" with a release agent to apply the textured surface. Your using the "mold skin" to make an impression in your repair.

You can get the liquid rubber for making molds from hobby lobby, Amazon, etc.

 

FWIW,

 

@Huntingky That's a good call to use the RTV. I made a (vinyl) record cleaning machine as used RTV to mold some water barriers. It really copies the underlying surface well. Thanks for pointing me to it.

@RogV Thanks for the embedded video. I'll use that approach with the RTV. I think this will get me a good copy of the grain AND a good tool that supports the imprint.

Thanks to all of your for your suggestions. It points me in a direction that I think I can pull off. I'll first practice on a 2x4 with some holes in it, then move onto the OE console.

 

I see that SEM sells a product called Interior Graining Pads. Has anyone ever used them before? From the website:

Interior Graining Pads are used to duplicate interior grains when using repair compounds.

FEATURES

• Contains 6 most popular leather and vinyl grains
• Ideal size for small repairs

 

I wonder how that newly advertised Flex Seal "paste" works as a molding agent? I'd think Plasti-Dip, sprayed on and peeled off, then glued to a proper backing would also do the job. Would first spray the surface with Pam or a mold-release agent.

 

Sharing my bad experience:
I masked off a 1" x 3" area on the console side and spread a thin film of canola oil as a release agent. I then spread RTV gasket maker to fill the area. Ten hours later, I verified that it was cured and found the gasket material completely stuck to the console. Canola oil sucks as a release agent.

I used a razor to shave off the gasket material, then used a variety of solvents, brushes, wipes and swear words to get the remaining film off of the console base.

Not a good experience so far.

I'll get some vinyl instead.

 

FWIW, next time you need to clean up RTV...... Ammonia.

 

I bought one of these kits to try to repair my 67 deluxe seatbacks. Haven't tried it yet. In my research, I found that even people that didn't like the product, liked the molding bars ability to recreate just about anything.

PLASTEX, PLASTIC REPAIR KITS, FIX CRACKS, REPAIR PLASTIC

Manufacturer of plastic repair kits. Plastex easily glues, fills gaps, repairs stripped threads and can remake tabs or small parts in just minutes.

www.plastex.net

 

Go to Smooth-On.com and look at their silicone mold making product. A superior mold making product designed for just this use.
I've used various products to impart a grain and haven't really liked any of them. I did redo the curve on the bottom of my door and this task took many, many hours to get right.

The process/product that seems to work better is a process called stamp embossing.
Create your mold using the silicone mold. If doing a flat surface embed the silicone mold on a flat platform (piece of plywood with a handle).
Use the stamp embossing sticky ink and apply to the stamp. Apply stamp to the area.
Sprinkle on the embossing powder and heat. Finish with paint.

This process would take experimentation for amount of ink, powder, heat and paint.
But this is a difficult task at best and requires practice.
[I have not tried this yet, yet all of the documentation does make this seem like an attractive alternative]

 

Well, several years ago we had a Mustang Q code convertible. The rear quarter interior panel were rotten, crumpling plastic.
To cheap to buy others,, so I sanded off the rotten surface, got to firm, good hard surface plastic, sprayed on clear chip guard (as you would use on a lower fender, valence). Let it cure, then carefully sanded it down a bit. Painted to interior color, Results were excellent.
I'd suggest experimenting a little on a piece of plastic.
Could not tell it when done.